
Paris in Autumn
Despite this trip being my fifth to Paris, it was one of many firsts. The first time in autumn, the first time not doing a bike tour, the first time eating at a Michelin-starred restaurant, first time at the flea market, first time visiting the Musée de Cluny, and firsts at (almost) all of the restaurants, boulangeries, and coffee shops we visited. This trip feels like such a treasure that I don’t want to revisit the memories. I want to keep them locked away, new, unchanged by repeated rememberings. So different from trips past.










Treasure. The word that kept surfacing in my mind throughout. Eggs with chives. Fresh herbs. Chicken with tarragon. Treasure. Treasure Treasure. Unicorn tapestries. White wine. The little cafe where we had many midnight desserts. Treasure, treasure, treasure.
Then there were the treasures I brought home. A robe. Pillow case. A plate from the flea market. Books. Earrings. Somehow there were three tote bags. Little treasures to use in everyday life.
A few things to share more detail on:
The Giverny tour. The website doesn’t give a whole lot of information, so with not much to go on I chose the self-guided half day tour. To answer several questions I had about the trip: Monet’s house is in the village and there is a lot to see and do, including restaurants and the cemetery where he and his family are buried. With the half day tour I we mostly took our time in the garden farther from the house, completely missed the garden at his house, quickly walked through the house, and had time for the gift shop and to get back to the coach at the appointed time. Knowing what I know now, I’d do the full day tour so there would be time to do it all.
E. Dehillerin is a store geared towards professionals. I didn’t know what most of the items were and the ones I did know I already had. I was disappointed by the store and I think it’s because I had a different impression of what it was based on what people share online.
Musée de Cluny. The medieval museum. I went for the unicorn tapestries and there ended up being a lot on Notre Dame. Columns and artifacts that were there in the medieval era.
Activities
Giverny tour with Paris City Vision.
Musée de Cluny. 28 rue Du Sommerard, 75005
Jardin du Luxembourg
Shop
Jamini, 10 rue du château d’eau, 75010
beautiful textiles. Indian patterns.
Passage Doré, 6 Rue du Château d’Eau, 75010
jewelry (Louise Damas), leather goods, and more.
Puces de Paris Saint-Ouen
E. Dehillerin, 18 et 20 rue Coquillière 75001
Elisabeth Chocolatier, 22 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75004
possibly the best chocolate?
Palais des Thés, 64 rue Vieille du Temple, 75003
my favorite tea
Restaurants
Comptoir des Fables, 112 rue Saint Dominique, 75007
Mushroom fricassee
Little Cafe, 62 Rue du Roi de Sicile, 75004
Creme Brulee, Salted Caramel Croissant
Holybelly, 5 rue Lucien Sampaix, 75010
A must. Everything is delicious.
Pink Mama, 20bis, Rue de Douai, 75009
delicious steak with butter-fried potatoes. Enjoyed sitting at the bar by the kitchen. Has a hidden bar.
Maison Bergeron, 112 Rue Saint-dominique, 75007
great bakery
Les Philosophes, 28 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75004
onion soup, boeuf bourguignon, Soleil d’Octobre
Arpege, 84, Rue de Varenne, 75007
I used to think it wasn’t worth spending hundreds on a meal but now I know better. This was a life-changing experience for me.
Boabar, 42 rue Sainte-Croix de la Bretonnerie, 75004
beef noodles, pork steamed bun